Day 3 (AM):  I have a few minutes before breakfast so I thought I would answer a couple questions that have been asked.  Soreness.  I really left you all hanging didn't I?  After my first day I rated my soreness a 15 out of 10 and then never mentioned it again.  Miraculously, it went away. The extreme muscle fatigue and soreness I had after walking 18 miles was basically gone the next morning.  I did follow Leighton's instructions regarding how to alleviate it that night and it worked!  Thanks Leights!

Accommodations on the Camino.  For the most "authentic" pilgrim experience, people stay in Albergues.  These are communal, hostel-like dwellings with bunkbeds, a sink to wash your clothes in, sometimes a kitchen, shared bathroom, etc.  This offers the greatest opportunity to mingle with fellow pilgrims and share every aspect of making the journey.  For those of us who don't want to backpack (my hand is up), like privacy and quiet at the end of a hard day of walking (up again),  and who enjoy using the bathroom whenever you feel like it (me again), you can sign up with a company, like Camino Ways, who will plot out your journey, arrange hotels for you, and offer a service which transports your suitcase from one hotel to the next.  I chose the "standard" hotels (also offer "superior") and they have been lovely small rooms, clean, contemporary, in great locations near the trail.  I also opted for dinner inclusion where possible, so I eat at the hotels or get a voucher to a nearby restaurant.  Breakfast is always included.  This is working beautifully for me as I feel I have plenty of opportunities to talk to fellow pilgrims at meals and while walking.

Talk to you later....

A beautiful morning

(PM)  It's 5:15.  We (The twin sisters from CA, Tina and Barb, and I) just arrived at our hotel after hiking (not walking) 19 miles through the hill towns of northwest Portugal.  The itinerary said today would be a 15 mile day along the coast - nope.  After leaving Esposende we quickly headed up into the hills and there we stayed for the remainder of the day until we descended and crossed a bridge into Viana do Castelo.  I am so thankful to have had people to walk with as the "trail" was circuitous and difficult to follow.  We wound our way through remote woods and silent villages and didn't come to a lunch spot until we had walked 14 miles (french fries, a toasted ham and cheese and an ice cream bar tasted like heaven).  But we finally caught site of the bridge and knew we were close to our destination.  

I realized today that I am somewhat winging this adventure and that the map I downloaded of the coastal route is not the correct route (there are 3 Portuguese camino routes - the central route, the coastal route and the Literal Way (??).  We are on the coastal route but it is not always seaside, as I learned today.  I will download a more accurate map tonight which my friend Tina recommended.  It was a beautiful, challenging day.

Very helpful signage

Even more helpful signage (look closely at the shoes)

Now it's getting rural..

We're in the woods...

Where we encounter a waterfall..

And a very enthusiastic man selling stuff in a hovel

Eventually we come out of the woods 

 And walk up and down through little towns

Until we see The Bridge!

We made it!