Day 4: Viana do Castelo to Caminha.  Another 18 mile day (I no longer believe any mileage info provided by Camino Ways, though, to be fair, we got lost today so that added some mileage).

***Mom alert - you might want to skip this entry, Mom.  It's going to cause worry.  But don't worry.  I've got this*******

So today started well.  We (Christine, Barb and I) decided to take the "Litoral" route instead of the "Coastal" route because the "Litoral" route literally travels along the ocean and is relatively flat while the "Coastal" route climbs up into the hill country and tries to kill you.  So we began our day gazing up at a Cathedral on the top of a mountain that we knew we would never visit because we weren't going to do that again today.



We waited at a cafe on route for a friend, who had been on her own yesterday and gotten lost.  Once Gena joined, we headed out along the ocean.



We decided to take an alternate route to avoid "walking in the sand" (that's what the guide said).  It took us out of the way and dumped us into a field with a mote around it so we had to back track.  We found our way back pretty quickly but it was the first time that we noticed that the online pathfinder app seemed to have some inconsistencies.  




It wasn't a total loss because we met a nice horse and saw a wildflower field.  Eventually we reconnected with the "Litoral" path and came back to the ocean.





We had a FABULOUS lunch in Vila Praia De Ancora and I left my friends there, as I was headed further up the coast to Caminha.

Gena and Barbara

I was excited to be on my own for a bit and made my way up the coastline toward the last village in Portugal (tomorrow I take a water taxi to Spain).  At the end of my walk, I found myself on a highway, walking on the shoulder, facing  oncoming traffic,  for over a mile.  I checked my interactive map, seemed right.  I thought, "This is nuts", and kept walking.  I came upon a gas station on the side of the highway and asked the attendant if this was indeed the way that the pilgrims enter Camilha and he assured me that it was "the only way" and told me to "just keep going", so I did.  I really didn't have another choice at that point.  I made it to the hotel, a bit fried by the experience, and asked the front desk lady if that was the route for pilgrims and she said yes.  I re-checked my app in my hotel room and voila! another route appeared running parallel to the highway.  I had missed a turn.  How did this happen?  It may be that once you start in a wrong direction, the app tries to get you to your destination as directly as possible, I don't know.  But it made me realize that when you've walked 16 miles, you're exhausted, and you just "want to get there" you may do stupid things.  I have learned my lesson.  Next time I'll call an uber.

This pilgrimage has not been a contemplative experience thus far.  My energy is reserved for walking, carrying my backpack, and pathfinding.  It's all about endurance and just continuing on.  Like he said, just keep going.  I'll meet up my friends tomorrow night in A Guarda.  Tomorrow is supposedly a VERY SHORT day (so they say!)  If I get there early, I'll find a laundromat and sit around for awhile.

Comments

  1. OK, so it was a combo of luck and endurance…….now just stick with someone OK’

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  2. Oh by the way, your photos have been outstanding but have no idea what you’ve been eating!

    ReplyDelete
  3. It all sounds like a wonderful and unique experience and we're so glad you are able to do it. Your determination and stamina amazes us! At our ages, of course, we would lean more towards the Uber pilgrimage. Thanks for allowing us to share the experience (without the pain:-)
    Sending love and hugs your way

    ReplyDelete

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